![]() ![]() $112.49 Rockford Fosgate RFK4D Dual Amplifier Wiring Kit $60.98 Rockford Fosgate PLC2 (x2) Remote Level Controllers $349.99 Rockford Fosgate T400X4AD (Door Speakers) $539.99 AudioControl DM-608 Digital Signal Processor) ![]() I was running a PAC line Converter, 5 channel amplifier, Kappa door speakers front and rear (not component), and a 10" subwoofer in a sealed center console enclosure.įor some people the B&O system my be good enough, for the other 99.9% that want to upgrade, here's my parts list from. Let me say, it will be very hard to go back to any factory stereo after my last truck. My last truck was a 2009 XLT that I installed a complete Infinity Kappa sound system in. If I had to guess, I would say about a quarter of the frequencies heard by the human ear are being eliminated by the B&O signal processor so the cheap paper speakers can better handle music. This is by far the worst sounding "premium" stereo system I have ever owned or even heard. I bought it one day before I left on a 650 mile drive to Tampa Florida from Asheville North Carolina (figured it would make the drive more comfy )Ībout half way through the trip, I had had enough, reached up to the dash and turned the radio off. I didn't find much info so I figured I would join and post a thread on how I wired the truck and how it sounds.įirst let me say, I have had this truck for 10 days. New member to the Ecoboost forum, but I've been trolling the threads for a looking to see if anyone had replaced the B&O stereo system in the 2018 model trucks. No resistors are needed for subwoofer channel or 3 channels that run off of the factory head unit. If you are adding amplification for mids and highs, you will also need to install resistors to the wires between the factory amp and DSP. There are 2 channels since it's a DVC sub. If you are just adding an aftermarket subwoofer and amplifier to your stock system, you will tap directly off of the subwoofer outputs on the factory amplifier. If you do not run all channels through Your DSP, you will experience some major time alignment issues. The pillar tweeters and center channel are ran directly off of the factory head unit, the front door speakers, rear door speakers, and subwoofer are ran off of the factory amplifier. The high frequencies for your tweeters can only be found by tapping the factory pillar tweeters directly. The reason for this is that the factory audio is major hacked. You need a 6 input DSP minimum, but I would buy an 8 input DSP like the audiocontrol DM-810 ideally. I know I rambled a bit but hope this helps you out.Just so you know prior to installing, a LC7i or similar DSP will not work in this truck. Let me tell you it was a night and day change. I do installs on the side for fun and my buddy wanted to see how significant of a difference sound proofing would be before he changed anything on his factory system. This will help with road noise, vibrations and sound response. If you find this happens when you upgrade your speakers my number one suggestion to resolving this would be doing some sound proofing in the doors. I know a lot of times when people upgrade just their speakers they feel they should get a much better low end response but a lot of the time that falls short. If I had decided I was never going to put subs in the car I would have gone with either an alpine type r because of the awesome high end response and the clean low end or I would have gone with an Infinty Kappa's for the same reasons. Because I was running subs I wasn't too concerned about the lows that came from them. I had tested a bunch of other 6x8 and 5x7 models before purchasing them and found a 5x7 is more responsive on mids and highs. In my previous car I had JL audio C2 5x7 speakers. I personally haven't upgraded my f-150's speakers yet but have experience with both comonpent and coaxial speakers that fit this truck.
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